What is double knitting
I hate it if I forget some information on a regular basis. That's why I write down some things. On this page I collect a lot of answers to general questions about double knitting, in some cases with special consideration of the mamafri rinsing patterns that are particularly frequently used in the creawelten forum. Besides, I hope that one or the other newcomer can orientate themselves with the help of my notes.
I am pleased when others find one or the other tip here as well. And I would like to thank everyone who made their experience available.
What is actually double face (DF) or also double knit or double knit?
You are knitting two pieces of knitting at the same time, the left sides of which are on top of each other. Outside you can always see the "beautiful" (right) side. Usually two colors are used. In a row you always have one stitch on the front side V and one stitch on the back side R on the needle. The V-stitches are always knitted and the R-stitches are always purl. The threads always run in the middle: with right stitches they are behind the knitted fabric and with purl stitches in front of the knitted fabric. It sounds complicated and it is a bit, but it can be learned.
Which method is suitable for casting on stitches?
1. Cross stitch with double thread. One thread per color. In the next row, the stitches are neatly sorted according to the colors and knitted according to DF-Art.
2. Cross stroke with two colors: Always alternate one stitch in the main color and one in the contrasting color. Video by Renate Ehgartner (DE)
3. Magic Cast on: a nice way to tie the front in the color of the front and the back in the color of the back. Anyone who already knows the method should give it a try. If you learn them again, you can use them for toe up socks or for a Möbius scarf.
4. Next time I will do it like this: with each color separately a Magic Cast on over 47 stitches (45 patterns + 2 edge stitches). Then I have two needles with 90 stitches each, half of which are up and half are down. Then I take the "up" stitches alternately on a needle. And the "down" stitches as well. Now I could start knitting DF in both directions. But I chain off the "down" stitches immediately. Always alternating front-back-front-back ...
5. provisional stop with double thread: I use the Turkish stop. At the end of the cast I have the required number of stitches twice. Once the stitches look in the knitting direction (A) and once against the knitting direction (B). I take care of (B) first: these stitches are cast off.
I now use the other stitches (A) to start the DF pattern by knitting a single color row (the stitches are nicely sorted! One on the right and one on the left).
6. Magic Cast on with two colors: In this project I made a normal magic cast on with two colors. And there is a video about it.
7. two-tone knitting: Video: I used to use knitting as a stop. However, I don't get the new stitch from the last stitch, but through the gap between the last and the penultimate stitch.
8. Two stranded tubular cast on (two-tone): once without slip knots here: video part 1 + video part 2 or with slip knots from another user, alternative video; Caution: if necessary, work with a smaller needle than when knitting
9. Two-tone loops: Photo tutorial (ENG)
10. Two-tone cross stroke: Video Alternating two color cast on: two-color variant of the cross attack
11. Crochet with double thread: video
12. I still have to try these methods:
several videos in English (I haven't seen yet)
How do you knit the edge?
1. Before the last stitch, put both threads forward, slip the last stitch, turn and knit the first stitch with both threads on the next row.
2. Edge stitches in the color of the respective side: Photo tutorial with German description
3rd wool thread (creawelten): I knit the edge as follows ... I cross the stitches, lift off the first stitch on the front side and purl the first stitch of the second color. What I'll try next is the following ... at the beginning I have the front stitch and at the end the back stitch and then I want to take on another stitch with the front color, because my tolas always have a colored border on the left side the other color,
4. Knit edge stitches individually, each in the contrasting color (I haven't tried it yet)
5. Knit the edge stitches individually in the "correct" colors. The edge remains open and you have to close it afterwards
6. Edge in one color: Wollliesel (creawelten): I knit the stitches from the needle as normal, then turn around, remove the first two sts as they come and continue knitting as normal.
7. No Twist, Slip Stitch Edging for Double Knitting: Video (ENG) for a kind of warp edge. The back and forth of the threads can be clearly seen and understood even without sound.
8. Pure edge solution when knitting, but very nice to look at: the cord edge
How do you do the binding off?
1. Pierce through a front (right) and a back (left) stitch, pull the thread through as if for a right stitch. Cast off the next two stitches in the same way as one stitch and then pass the first stitch knitted over the second on the right needle.
2. Knit one row in one color (front and back the respective background color). At the end of the row the threads are on the left. Now I start right at the original beginning of the row and lift the individual stitches on top of each other as if they were cast off normally. So always a front over a back, the back again over a front, and so on. Alternatively, you can put the first stitch on a crochet hook and then pull the stitches over each other with the crochet hook. Again: only stitches are treated, but there is NO working thread.
3. Separate the front and back by pulling in two needles (one for front and one for back) stitch by stitch. Then join the stitch in a stitch.
Special solution: Double Face cloth with 2-M-iCord border in sample color A
1. Turkish Cast on (pattern stitches + 1x2RM); the other 2 edge stitches remain with the iCord Bind off)
2. iCord Bind off; Finally, lift off the iCord stitches again and place them on the left needle, the knitting is now ready to start
3. Knit a row in pattern color A (only knit stitches; do not use color B) and turn piece. As the work is now, the pattern starts with # 5 after #t 4
4. Put ball B to the right and pull the thread to the left. At around 150 cm you put the thread on your left hand so that you knit towards the end of the thread: always one stitch lifted increase with color B and one stitch lifted off in color A. At the end of the row there should be a long thread B and you go back to the beginning of the row (without turning).
5. Now tie both balls to the knitting at the beginning of the row. You start with the pattern. Remember that you have already worked a single-colored pattern row (# 3 + # 4).
With the rest of the thread end of color B I connected the stitches with the iCord. With a darning needle.
uff. Difficult to describe. I need a video
iCord border in red over 2 stitches:
1. Let both threads hang straight down
2. If necessary, put the color A thread under the color B thread on the right side
3. Now pass the color A thread over the left to the outer edge (this is where the threads cross)
4. Take off 2 stitches color A and turn
5. Knit 2 stitches in color A
To bind off: iCord edge over 2 sts in MF (color B is no longer used)
1. Knit 2 stitches in color A.
2. Slip 2 sts back on left needle
3. K 1, 1 st as if knit to P,
4. 2 sts individually as if knit, push left needle through the two stitches (right needle stays in)
5. K the two sts together
6. Pull the first slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
Repeat from 2nd to 6th until there are only 2 sts on the left needle
Knit an iCord for the hanger from the stitches on the right needle and connect it to the stitches on the left needle in a stitch.
Sample project in Ravelry
How and where do I sew the threads?
1. in the edge: I think I muddled them in the edge.
2. in the hanger (if available), which can also be used for sewing threads.
What about stitch samples and needle sizes?
Gauges for DF must also be knitted as DF. There is no point with just one thread, because the result is very different. A gauge is not that important for pot holders, but it does make sense to test the whole thing with a few rows. Then you can see whether the knitted fabric looks good at all with the selected needle size. Many knitters have made the experience that they have to use half to one needle size less for DF than for simple knitted fabrics.
How do I have to hold the two strings?
1. Place both threads together over the fingers as in normal knitting to incorporate an additional turn for the little finger (to better control the thread tension) and reverse the direction for one of the two threads over the index finger. The thread that has changed direction runs closer to my fingernail than the other and I use it to knit the purl stitches.
2. There are knitted thimbles that can be used to sort the threads.
3. From hearsay I know that some people also let one thread run "normally" over the left hand and the additional color over the right hand (as is usually knitted in many countries anyway
4. And how do you do it? If you describe other methods to me, I'll add them here.
This video helped SabineDD: Fair Isle Instructions
I knit a mamafri rinsing motif as a DF. The eye should originally be knitted as a bobble. How do I do this at DF?
Answer: In the DF, the eye is knitted as a normal right stitch in the contrasting color.
Can you knit DF in the round?
Yeah yeah Hats, headbands, and cell phone cases are good examples. But since the same side is always in front in laps, you have to make sure that you do everything right on the back as well.
How much yarn will i need?
Answer: Of course, you cannot give an exact answer to this. But you should always keep in mind that you are essentially knitting the same piece of knitting twice. So you need roughly twice as much wool. If you knit in the round, i.e. always one color on the right and the other on the left, then it is completely normal that you need a little more of one color than the other. This is due to the fact that a lot of knitters knit right and purl stitches slightly differently.
Does it take forever until such a DF part is finished?
Forever would be an exaggeration, but it takes a long time. First of all, you knit twice the number of stitches that would be necessary for a one-sided knit. Approximately. And then the technology is unfamiliar, at least at the beginning. Finally, you have to keep in mind that you usually knit counted patterns that you have to concentrate on. Of course, all of these factors take time. But you also knit something very special.
DF doesn't look as neat on me as it does on others. What can I pay attention to?
- Small needle size
- smooth yarn (which may become a little tidier by itself when you wash it)
- Exercise: left and right stitches should be the same size as possible
- special attention when changing the color. Pull the yarn extra tight again.
Who has more tips?
In my case, the two threads twist very much. After a few rows I let the knitted fabric hang so that it twists out again.
Tip from the creawelten forum (wolloma): "Since I've been careful to turn the needle with the knitting to the left and sometimes to the right when changing rows, this problem rarely occurs."
How do you make increases and decreases in DF?
1. The main thing to remember is the increases or decreases on the front and to make on the back.
2. With increases I usually take a lifted increase. I can do it with both right and purl stitches. First the increase in the right stitches, then in the purl stitches, then knit another right stitch, etc.
3. With the creas there is a tip from Ronka: all increases only on the right stitches. Then you just have to remember in the back row that the appropriate increases are due there. But actually ingeniously simple.
My favorite: I do Lifted Increases (which are almost invisible) on the right side, as described by Ronka. With circular knitting I have to increase the purl stitches as well, but that works fine too. If necessary, I turn the work over for the increase so that I can also see it from the right side.
4. For approvals two adjacent stitches are usually knitted together. In the DF, one stitch belongs to the front and the neighboring stitches to the back. So you first have to rearrange so that two adjacent stitches on the front side and two adjacent stitches on the back side are next to each other. Then you can lose weight in the same way that you know from "normal" knitting.
What if my ball is tangled and I have to start a new ball? How does it work?
1. at the edge
2. not yet tried and it would definitely be fiddly: weave in the thread end.
3. Wolloma (creawelten): With doubleface, I prefer to start a new ball in the middle of a row: I gently knot both threads with a flat double knot and simply slide the ends between the two sides of the knit. On the next row, if necessary, I can re-tie the knot so that no stitch is too loose or the knot peeps out.
How do I get the front and back legible writing? So no mirror writing?
From a purely knitting point of view, it would be possible to knit two completely different patterns on the front and back. Usually you don't do that because it is quite an effort to concentrate. With writing, however, it's worth it. You have to use two instructions for this: one only applies to the right stitches (front) and one only applies to the left stitches (back).
A description: http://www.ravelry.com/projects/Potschies/bookmark-lesezeichen-tatort
Can you work DF with more than two colors?
yes is possible (I just don't have the time to do more)
Video with 4-colored double knit
Which patterns can I use for DF? What is the connection with re-li-rinsing, filet crocheting, cross stitch
I think that roughly speaking any pattern that is a two-tone grid pattern can be knitted in DF. Ultimately, you have to see whether the proportions are roughly the same or if they are not so important for the pattern. If you look at a single knitting stitch, it is 3 length units high and 4 length units wide across the thumb. So a rectangle. A cross stitch, on the other hand, is a square.
What is the question?
Cross stitch templates, filet crochet, rinsing patterns
I have to write more here, but right now I don't feel like it (25OCT2015)
If I want to make a DF out of the right-left rinses, do I have to knit the same row again on the way back or the next one immediately?
You knit the right row according to the counted pattern (right = color 1 and purl = color 2) and knit the back row the stitches back in the colors as they appear. Each row in the counting pattern is therefore knitted once as a row from the right and once as a row from the back. For the sink, a back and a back row always become a pattern line.
Advantage of this pattern: you can always rest in the back row
Disadvantage of these patterns: since you only change the pattern every second row, you are giving away the opportunity to "draw" very detailed
Use the right-left-rinsing pattern for filet crocheting?
The question comes from the Creawelten. Someone there has already done a filet crochet according to DF instructions and was very happy with it.
mamafris instructions how to do it: In filet crocheting, each row is crocheted only once and just as you see the motif.
Cross = filled box (4 double crochets) - empty box remains empty
A precise description (like many LuMa + patent sticks) was available from Pinova on creawelten. Unfortunately the forum is closed.
I do not like it
I've tried patterns that go to the edge. I do not really like it that much. I prefer to have a border in the background color on the outside. That may be because I'm crossing the threads on the edge.
Tutorials, introductions and special technical instructions
Free PDF from Birgit Enzinger with lots of detailed information
Request PDF tutorial (in German)
Tutorial from Kalinumba (for free download)
I'm linking a few DF parts here, I find it special somehow. The tastes are of course different, but if you have found items like that, let me know and I'll add it here. But maybe we could show very different things that were created using this beautiful technique. As a suggestion.
Triangular scarf based on the Truchet tile pattern
(I had to remove most of the links when the Creawelten forum closed in autumn 2018)
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